2 Shop Trees
Tree Care Resource Guide
2 Shop Trees
wants to make sure that you are more than satisfied with our
level of service and support. We don't just want to sell you
trees, we want to make sure you know how to nurture
beautiful and healthy trees. In order to allow you to do
this, we have created the following sections (Please click
on the section to view our useful information):
For
best availability order your trees now!
Click
here to order on-line or call us at 1-888-864-7663
Remember our tree
glossary if you find terms that you are not familiar
with. You can also click here to order
your trees now!
Storing
and planting your trees
When you
get your trees, if you are going to store them, please store
the packaged trees in a cool location between 34-38 degrees.
Keep storage to a minimum.
Please cover the roots, not the top of the tree.
This will reduce mold.
To plant
your trees, we recommend planting them 12-16 feet apart.
Trees will grow to a height of 35 feet or more, so
you want to have adequate space for them to grow. Use
a pail of water to carry the trees to the planting site.
This will keep the roots moist while the trees await
planting. (Do
not leave trees in a pail of water more than a few hours.) Plant
the tree at the same depth it grew in the nursery.
Leave a shallow depression around each tree to hold
water. Water
the tree thoroughly after planting to settle the soil around
the roots. Water
about once a week for the first year if possible.
Keep tree
plantings free of weeds. We’ve found fresh grass clippings as mulch will form
mold and will take off the bottom branches.
A product “Goal” is recommended to keep weeds
from germinating.
While planting
different types of trees differs in the details, all trees
eventually end up in a hole. But not any old hole will do.
The
most common mistake when planting a tree is digging a hole,
which is both too deep and too narrow. Too deep and the
roots don’t have access to sufficient oxygen to ensure
proper growth. Too narrow and the root structure
can’t expand sufficiently to nourish and properly anchor
the tree.
As a general
rule, trees should be transplanted no deeper than the soil
in which they were originally grown. The width of the hole
should be at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball or
container or the spread of the roots in the case of bare
root trees. This will provide the tree with enough
worked earth for its root structure to establish itself.
When
digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to
avoid ‘glazing’. Glazing occurs when the sides and
bottom of a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through
which water has difficulty passing. To break up the
glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points
along the sides of the completed hole. Also, raising the
bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding
area. This allows water to disperse, reducing the
possibility of water pooling in the planting zone.
Planting
bare-rooted trees is a little different as there is no soil
surrounding the roots. Most importantly, the time
between purchase and planting is a more critical issue.
Plant as soon as possible. Care should be taken to
ensure that the roots are kept moist in the period between
purchase and planting. Prune broken or damaged roots
but save as much of the root structure as you can.
To plant, first
build a cone of earth in the center of the hole around which
to splay the roots. Dig a round hole and make a small mound
of soil in the bottom of the hole. Spread the roots out in
all directions, using the mound as a root support, pull
loose soil back over the roots, filling the hole half way.
Lightly tamp soil down or fill with water. Then, back fill
the rest of the hole, tamp soil again and re-water. Do not
compact the soil by tamping wet soil. Soil compaction
eliminates oxygen which roots need to survive. Make sure
that when properly seated on this cone the tree is planted
so that the ‘trunk flare’ is clearly visible and the
‘crown’, where the roots and top meet, is about two
inches above the soil level. This is to allow for
natural settling.
Leave
bare root bundles intact and store in a cool place (under 50
degrees Fahrenheit) if planting is to occur within 48 hours
of delivery. If planting is not planned for more than two
days, open the bundle, separate the seedlings and place them
in a trench, cover the roots with loose soil, and fill the
trench with soil. Keep the soil in the trench moist and
protect the roots from exposure to air.
When
to plant your trees
Climate
plays a deciding role when determining the appropriate
planting time. Newly planted trees do best when
exposed to moderate temperature and rainfall and they need
time to root and acclimatize before the onset of intense
heat and dryness of summer or the freezing temperatures of
winter.
Spring
and early fall, therefore, are generally the best planting
seasons (depending on your location) with spring preferred
over fall in the more northerly latitudes. In the southern
United States, however, which does not experience an intense
winter, planting can take place during the winter months.
Good
tips to maintain healthy and beautiful trees
Healthy trees
are an asset. They provide cooling shade, habitat for birds,
and can increase the value of your property. This
information is provided to help you care for the trees
around your residence.
Topping...Don't
Do It!
Topping or stubbing are
examples of removing large branches from mature trees. A
topped tree is a disfigured tree and although it was
intended to help the tree, the opposite is the result.
When a large amount of a
tree's canopy (umbrella) is removed, the crown to root ratio
is imbalanced and this adversely affects the tree's
nutrition. It also exposes the tree to the sun which can
result in scalding. Topped trees develop multiple branches
or suckers, at or near the pruning cut. These branches
generally are weakly attached and are prone to failure.
A topped tree is also
vulnerable to disease as the stubs have a difficult time
forming protective callus and this invites invasion of fungi
and insects. The location of the topping cuts may also
prevent the tree's natural defense system from doing its
job.
Finally, topping trees
represents an unwarranted expense. A topped tree will often
grow back to its original height quickly, and it will be
more dense than one that has been pruned correctly. Other
costs may be hidden, such as loss of property value that a
well-maintained tree will encourage. There is also increased
hazard from branches that have weakened as a result of the
topping.
Inflicted
Wounds
Wounds made by climbing
spikes invite infection. There will be holes in the tree
bark. These injuries often do not repair efficiently or
effectively.
Mechanical
Injuries
Lawn mowers and string
trimmers hitting the bark of a tree can severely damage the
inner bark and cambium near the soil line. This damage
invites insects and fungi infestation. The best advice is to
remove sod from around the base of the tree and replace with
mulch.
Soil
Compaction
Compacted soil is not easily
penetrated by water and air, the two basic needs for strong,
healthy roots. Soil compaction can be caused by heavy
equipment used near a tree, concrete over the root zone,
even foot traffic can cause soil compaction. Do not store
items by the tree.
Take Care
with New Plantings
Do not plant a new tree with
a wire basket, rope, or anything that may constrict or
"girdle" the roots. Girdled roots seriously affect
the health and the stability of a tree. Plan where you want
to plant a new tree based on its type and mature size. Be
cautious when planting trees near a home foundation, patio,
driveway, under power lines, or under a home's eaves.
Excessive
Soil
Too much fill over a newly
planted tree's roots can cause damage, and may even kill
some species. Take care not to plant tree too deep.
Excavation/Construction
Damage
Building foundations,
driveway, sidewalk & road excavation are common events
that can cause serious damage to a tree's root system.
Construction damage may not be immediately noticeable, but
over a period of years the health of the tree will decline
as a result of root damage.
A prized tree may be
inadvertently, but fatally injured when care is not taken
during excavation or construction. If you are building near
an existing tree, consider calling an arborist to advise on
the project during the planning phase, before any work has
begun.
Pruning/Thinning
Pruning is needed to remove
dead, diseased, injured, broken, rubbing and crowded limbs.
Trees are thinned to allow for the wind and air to flow
through. Proper thinning reduces wind resistance often
responsible for uprooting or creating deformities.
A well-thinned tree reflects
a skilled arborist with good judgment and is a worthwhile
investment in a valued tree. Healthy, well-formed trees
increase the value of property; and the opposite is also
true.
A well-pruned tree will
hardly look like it has been pruned. The tree will retain
the characteristics of its species. Some tree species are
small, some are large. A skilled arborist will not make a
large tree small as that is contrary to industry standards.
When to
Prune
Tree pruning to remove
hazardous limbs, dead and diseased branches, can be
accomplished at any time. Light pruning can usually be done
at any time. Large cuts are best made in late winter or
early spring. Correct pruning is more important than timing.
Drainage/Aeration/Vertical
Mulching
If the soil drains easily, it
is usually well aerated. Soil that does not drain needs
aeration. An adequate supply of oxygen and water to the
roots is essential. Vertical mulching can improve the soil
and encourage root growth and water uptake. For this, holes
are drilled around the root zone and filled with small
gravel or other material for the purpose.
Watering
The frequency of watering
depends on the type of soil and the amount of rainfall.
Water must be allowed to soak deep into the ground. The most
beneficial time to water trees is in the early morning.
Water slowly or use drip irrigation until the water has
moistened down to the roots. Do not allow water to puddle or
accumulate and runoff. This is wasteful and can be
detrimental to root growth and function.
Tree
Nutrition & Fertilizing
Trees
require certain essential elements to function and grow.
Fertilizing a tree can increase growth, reduce
susceptibility to certain diseases and pests, and can help
reverse declining health.
For
best availability order your trees now!
Click
here to order on-line or call us at 1-888-864-7663 |